Black Diamond ATC-Guide Rapel/Belay Device

Curated from 70 real Reddit conversations

Refreshed on: April 16, 2025

Black Diamond ATC-Guide Rapel/Belay Device

Brand: BLACK DIAMOND
Price: $37
Snoop Score:
6.1
Sentiment
8.7
Popularity
8.0
Technical
5.1

Snoop's Take

The Black Diamond ATC-Guide Rapel/Belay Device is a versatile and essential tool for climbers, designed for both belaying and rappelling in various environments. It is lightweight, durable, and compatible with thinner ropes, making it ideal for glacier travel and technical routes. Users have praised its functionality, noting that "it is simple, light, and can do everything you need," while also recommending it for beginners and mountaineering due to its ease of use and reliability. Overall, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is highly regarded within its category, making it a recommended choice for both novice and experienced climbers alike.

Not for you? Check out our other rated Belay & Rappel Equipment

Atc guide alpine can handle 6mm rope

Positive Feedback

Black diamond atc is rated for minimum 8.1mm, Petzl reverso for minimum 6.9mm... doesn't necessarily mean they won't help on a thinner rope but it might be sketchy.

Negative Feedback
Product
6.1
Black Diamond ATC-Guide Rapel/Belay Device
Beginner Belaying
1 / 10
Sport Climbing
2 / 10
Trad & Multi-Pitch Climbing
9 / 10
Gym & Top-Rope Training
2 / 10
See how this compares to all Belay & Rappel Equipment

What it does well!

Key strengths users can’t stop talking about.
Compatible with thin ropes for glacier travel
Atc guide alpine can handle 6mm rope
Compatible with thin ropes for rappelling
Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide and two Petzl Attache carabiners works well
Lightweight design improves usability
My bulky ATC-XP kept hitting me in the balls when I ran around with it hanging off of my belay loop.
Biggest for sure. I constantly hear people complaining that their normal ATC is just too heavy to carry around ;)
I always rent my skis and look for the cheapest stores & prices.
Highly recommended belay device for mountaineering
Yes. ATC guide is pretty much the gold standard belay device for mountaineering.
Lightweight and easy to use
it is simple, light, and can do everything you need.
Yup! Fantastic bundle. Even if you prefer to belay with a gri-gri, it's much easier to (eventually) rap with the ATC, and you should learn to use one eventually anyway.
Useful for technical routes and crevasse rescue
Helpful for crevasse rescue to rappel down to help a badly stuck victim.
Compatible with smaller diameter ropes for ice and mountaineering
The BD also has an alpine version for the smaller diameter ropes typically used for ice and mountaineering.
Designed for thin ropes
there is a Edelrid micro jul and a bd atc guide specifically made for thin ropes.
Lightweight option for thin ropes
MicroJul doesn't lock off in locking mode (not even a little) which kind of defeats the purpose.
Highly recommended for beginners
I'm just gonna say you're overthinking it and this doesn't matter that much.
You're over thinking it.
Affordable price for a quality belay device
Thanks!!
Black Diamond ATC Guide approx $25.
Recommended for beginners
Second this. Get the Guide one. Or the DMM Pivot.
Good for multipitch trad climbing
If your boyfriend does mostly gym or single pitch sport climbing, the grigri would be a good choice.
Highly recommended over figure 8
Yep - i've used a piranha. They are great! Good suggestion.
Useful for creating backup friction
I use a prusik below my atc or figure8 to create enough friction to stop me going further down if I ever get unconscious or need to use both hands to untangle rope or w/e.
A mule knot can securely tie off any style of belay/rappel device.

Where it needs some work!

Areas to watch—feedback on possible improvements.
Not rated for ropes thinner than 8.1mm
Black diamond atc is rated for minimum 8.1mm, Petzl reverso for minimum 6.9mm... doesn't necessarily mean they won't help on a thinner rope but it might be sketchy.
Not recommended for canyoneering
Get an ATS not an ATC for canyoneering. It doesn’t need to be extended out.
Locking mechanisms may fail in sandy conditions
Black diamond ‘biners have locking mechanisms that are sub-par in sandy conditions IMO, avoid them.
Not suitable for use with frozen ropes
Even keep it racked for regular rock as a back up to my GriGri.
Not versatile for canyoneering
Most of us will use a piranha, which is similar to an 8 or an ATC.
Not suitable for rappelling in certain scenarios
Biggest. I can't believe any climbing company would produce a tube-style device which forces a climber cleaning a route to be lowered as opposed to rappelling.

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Black Diamond Big Air ATC XP Belay Device and Carabiner PackageBlack Diamond Big Air ATC XP Belay Device and Carabiner Package$39
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Core Power Plays

The specs and strengths that make it shine.
Discussion on various rappel devices for thin ropes
My Petzl reverso works for rappelling with it if I use two carabiners (as Petzl recommends), but I know Mammut used to make a figure of 8 specifically for thin ropes.
You might take a look at rappel devices intended for canyoneering, especially if you only need to rappel and not belay.
Maybe check out the Sterling ATS? Theoretically should work.
Comparison with other belay devices like the GriGri
They’re much more expensive than an ATC, but they have a semi auto locking cam, which is similar to a seatbelt- it locks itself if too much rope gets pulled through at once.

Hidden Hero Hacks

Unexpected tricks and side‑door uses you’ll love.
Discussion on various rappelling techniques
Rappel Devices for 6mm Rope? What is/would be your preffered way to rappel on a 6mm rope like the petzl rad line? Are there any devices like the petzl reverso or black diamond atc that work on a 6mm rope? thanks in advance for help:
Besides the hardware recommendations, Super Munter is my preference for 8mm and under. Easy to tie, no fumbling with extra gear.
Munter hitch is common and works well. Super munter if you want even more friction.
The ATC presents a different set of problems, and I have very little experience rappelling on it.
Discussion on alternative devices for rappelling
Spoc is pretty much the same thing as a micro traxion, but way cheaper.

Buyer’s Cheat Sheet

What to check before you click ‘Add to Cart.’
Discussion on rope thickness for glacier climbing
6mm sounds awfully thin for a glacier rope, but sounds like the cool kids are doing that these days.
I think the most common glacier ropes are 8-9mm.
The system MUST remain in tight control: one slip and it's game over.
Importance of training for equipment use
Once you have training, then you will know what you need.
Training and education.
Mention of alternative devices like the DMM Pivot
Lots of people are recommending the BD ATC guide, which is definitely a great option.
Importance of selecting the right device for specific climbing scenarios
You probably wouldn’t need an ATC on the west buttress of Denali, no rappels or sections where you would pitch it.
Mention of other brands and alternatives
Second vote for Munter or Supermunter, thinnest rope I've rappelled on is an 8mm static.
Discussion on local climbing gear inventory for shops
HMS biner for belaying, smaller biner for anchors, atc, helmet, chalk kit.
These are climbing trip killers if they fail.
Discussion on climbing gear bundles
Started Indoor Top Rope Climbing & Loved It.
Considerations for buying climbing gear in-store
That harness is super comfy, it's the one I use all the time.

Cautionary Callouts

Know the pitfalls before they catch you off guard.
Auto-blocking devices not recommended for alpine work
In my naivete I bought a GriGri and then made the realization that those aren't recommended for Alpine work because of the moving parts.
There is no use for a Grigri.
Discussion on various belay devices and preferences
What belay/rappel devices do you recommend for mountaineering? What brand in particular.
I mostly climb rock, but I recently had to replace my ATC Guide and went with a DMM Pivot instead– it’s such an upgrade.
New Specific Information on The Criminal Enterprises DLC Changes and Improvements # Upcoming Improvements to the GTA Online Experience
Discussion on belay device preferences
Looking to lead in due time
I really like the Mega Jul! Works in guide mode, but also auto locks (or brake assists) like a grigri.
Discussion on assisted braking device preferences
I have always used an ATC. I have tried a GriGri in the past and do not get on with it (partly because I am left-handed, and partly because I found the whole process very clunky and over-complicated compared to the simplicity of the ATC technique).
Personally I use the Jul 2 simply because I got a great deal for one. Also I like that it is made out of steel.
+1 for the jul 2 (i use a megajul but it’s essentially the same).
i switched from atc to atc pilot because of a she moves mountains trip where they required (and provided) pilots specifically and i loved how similar it was to the atc.

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