BLACK DIAMOND ATC-XP Belay Device

Curated from 88 real Reddit conversations

Refreshed on: April 16, 2025

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BLACK DIAMOND ATC-XP Belay Device

Brand: Black Diamond
Price: $24
Snoop Score:
7.2
Sentiment
7.5
Popularity
8.1
Technical
6.5
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Snoop's Take

The BLACK DIAMOND ATC-XP Belay Device is a versatile tool designed for rock climbing and rappelling, accommodating ropes ranging from 7.7 to 11 mm. Users praise its effectiveness, with one noting, "Yes. ATC guide is pretty much the gold standard belay device for mountaineering," highlighting its reliability for both beginners and experienced climbers. While many users recommend the ATC XP for its affordability and versatility, some feedback notes issues with slipping and bulkiness, suggesting that it may not be the ideal choice for everyone. Overall, the BLACK DIAMOND ATC-XP is highly regarded within its category, making it a solid choice for those seeking a dependable belay device.

Not for you? Check out our other rated Belay & Rappel Equipment

A solid rental shop will have equipment for virtually every skill level

Positive Feedback

Black diamond atc is rated for minimum 8.1mm, Petzl reverso for minimum 6.9mm... doesn't necessarily mean they won't help on a thinner rope but it might be sketchy.

Negative Feedback
Product
7.2
BLACK DIAMOND ATC-XP Belay Device
Buy on Amazon for $24
Beginner Belaying
7 / 10
Sport Climbing
5 / 10
Trad & Multi-Pitch Climbing
9 / 10
Gym & Top-Rope Training
7 / 10
See how this compares to all Belay & Rappel Equipment

What it does well!

Key strengths users can’t stop talking about.
Black Diamond ATC device suitable for various rope sizes.
“A solid rental shop will have equipment for virtually every skill level”➕
BD ATC Guide highly regarded for mountaineering
“Yes. ATC guide is pretty much the gold standard belay device for mountaineering.”➕
“Lots of people are recommending the BD ATC guide, which is definitely a great option.”➕
Device suitable for technical alpine routes
“Having said that a BD ATC Guide would be fine for the more technical routes, same with a reverso.”➕
Helpful for crevasse rescue scenarios
“Helpful for crevasse rescue to rappel down to help a badly stuck victim.”➕
Black Diamond ATC Guide suitable for thin ropes.
“there is a Edelrid micro jul and a bd atc guide specifically made for thin ropes.”➕
Many users recommend the ATC XP for beginners
“Beginner climber (a few years it a very low frequency, 5.10 top rope range, looking to lead in due time) looking for some advice on purchasing a belay device and carabiner.”➕
“You're over thinking it.”➕
Black Diamond ATC XP is versatile for various rope sizes.
“Having tried it in only one session so far, it seems good and I like that I can hold my braking hand in a certain position and still be able to pay out slack easily by pulling up with my other hand, so there isn't a huge change in belaying technique for me.”➕
Learning to use an ATC is essential for competence.
“Using gadgets to compensate for lack of competence is a recipe for disaster.”➕
ATC XP suitable for various weight differences in belaying
“It was fine, I definitely would launch comically/dramatically off the ground though, and either into the wall or my partners butt.”➕
Black Diamond ATC Guide is affordable.
“Black Diamond ATC Guide approx $25.”➕
“Second this. Get the Guide one. Or the DMM Pivot.”➕
Versatile design suitable for different rope sizes.
“Most of us will use a piranha, which is similar to an 8 or an ATC.”➕
Effective for creating friction during rappelling.
“I use a prusik below my atc or figure8 to create enough friction to stop me going further down if I ever get unconscious or need to use both hands to untangle rope or w/e.”➕
“A mule knot can securely tie off any style of belay/rappel device.”➕
ATC Alpine Guide provides good controllable friction for thin ropes
“The BD ATC Alpine Guide is the only belay device that provides good controllable friction.”➕

Where it needs some work!

Areas to watch—feedback on possible improvements.
Black Diamond ATC not rated for ropes under 8.1mm.
“Black diamond atc is rated for minimum 8.1mm, Petzl reverso for minimum 6.9mm... doesn't necessarily mean they won't help on a thinner rope but it might be sketchy.”➕
Concerns about slipping when using the device.
“am a huge fan. But would prefer not to leave my weight on one for too long if I am going to be adjusting gear or working on rope as they have been reported to slip in rare occasions.”➕
Device can cause self-injury due to bulkiness.
“My bulky ATC-XP kept hitting me in the balls when I ran around with it hanging off of my belay loop.”➕
Difficult to use for cleaning routes due to design.
“Biggest. I can't believe any climbing company would produce a tube-style device which forces a climber cleaning a route to be lowered as opposed to rappelling.”➕
Heaviness makes it cumbersome to carry.
“Biggest for sure. I constantly hear people complaining that their normal ATC is just too heavy to carry around.”➕
Concerns about effectiveness with very thin ropes
“Out of curiosity, would a grigri or other devices still be able to assisted brake a rope that skinny?”➕
Dislike for BD devices despite recognizing their utility
“I dislike BD but I don't know of a comparable device.”➕

Compare On All Talked About Dimensions

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Mammut Smart 2.0 Belay DeviceMammut Smart 2.0 Belay Device$39
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Ito Rocky Climbing Stop Descender for RappellingIto Rocky Climbing Stop Descender for Rappelling$43
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BLACK DIAMOND ATC-XP Belay DeviceBLACK DIAMOND ATC-XP Belay Device$24
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AOKWIT Professional 25KN Rappel ATC Belay DeviceAOKWIT Professional 25KN Rappel ATC Belay Device$15
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Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay DeviceBlack Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device$24
7.1
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Petzl GRIGRI + Belay Device with Anti-Panic HandlePetzl GRIGRI + Belay Device with Anti-Panic Handle$89
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Black Diamond Big Air ATC XP Belay Device and Carabiner PackageBlack Diamond Big Air ATC XP Belay Device and Carabiner Package$39
6.2
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Black Diamond ATC-Guide Rapel/Belay DeviceBlack Diamond ATC-Guide Rapel/Belay Device$37
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YXGOOD 50KN Rescue Figure 8 DescenderYXGOOD 50KN Rescue Figure 8 Descender$16
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PETZL GRIGRI Belay DevicePETZL GRIGRI Belay Device$99
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Black Diamond Super 8 Belay Rappel DeviceBlack Diamond Super 8 Belay Rappel Device$19
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NewDoar Climbing Abseiling Belay DeviceNewDoar Climbing Abseiling Belay Device$13
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WILDKEN Professional Rappel ATC Belay DeviceWILDKEN Professional Rappel ATC Belay Device$12
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PETZL Gray GRIGRI 3 Climbing Belay DevicePETZL Gray GRIGRI 3 Climbing Belay Device$95
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Core Power Plays

The specs and strengths that make it shine.
Discussion on device preferences for snow and ice climbing
“Even keep it racked for regular rock as a back up to my GriGri.”➕
“A gri gri is for climbing. I can’t imagine using it with frozen ropes effectively.”➕
Discussion on various rappel devices for thin ropes.
“It's basically free to try anyway.”➕
“I've also heard good things about the CRITR, though haven't tried them myself: https://www.canyoneeringusa.com/store/canyon-werks-critr2-rappel-device”➕
“ATC Alpine Guide and Grivel Scream provide plenty of friction.”➕
“Maybe check out the Sterling ATS? Theoretically should work.”➕
Comparison of different belay devices and their handling.
“+1 for the jul 2 (i use a megajul but it’s essentially the same).”➕
Discussion on the effectiveness of different belay devices.
“I am conscious about lowering people without the use of the gri gri lever so I'd appreciate your thoughts.”➕
“A quiver of one and it does it all well.”➕
Discussion on different belay device types.
“If your boyfriend does mostly gym or single pitch sport climbing, the grigri would be a good choice.”➕
“It really comes down to personal preference, but both can be used for belaying!”➕

Buyer’s Cheat Sheet

What to check before you click ‘Add to Cart.’
Discussion on appropriate rope sizes for glacier travel and rappelling.
“In my naivete I bought a GriGri and then made the realization that those aren't recommended for Alpine work because of the moving parts.”➕
“those 6mm cords are hyper static and should never be used for climbing - only glacier travel and rappelling.”➕
“A grigri can be a nice part of a rescue kit though, because of the release.”➕
“The petzl Volta guide is very common.”➕
Discussion on belay device recommendations for thin ropes.
“Rappel Devices for 6mm Rope? What is/would be your preffered way to rappel on a 6mm rope like the petzl rad line?”➕
“Easy to tie, no fumbling with extra gear.”➕
“Main thing is to test these in a safe spot and making sure you have manageable friction before you’re hanging off a cliff.”➕
Discussion on equipment recommendations for rappelling.
“Consider a figure 8 style device with some sort of way to control friction and lock off on rappel.”➕
“Get an ATS not an ATC for canyoneering.”➕
Importance of training before using climbing gear.
“Once you have training, then you will know what you need.”➕
“Training and education.”➕
Discussion on comparing ATC XP with other belay devices
“I really like the Mega Jul! Works in guide mode, but also auto locks (or brake assists) like a grigri.”➕
General advice on knowing how to use any ATC properly
“I'm just gonna say you're overthinking it and this doesn't matter that much.”➕
Discussion on preference for assisted braking devices over traditional ATC.
“I use the Jul 2 simply because I got a great deal for one. Also I like that it is made out of steel. Longer life span and no black aluminium dust on my rope.”➕
“use whatever you feel most confident and comfortable with.”➕
“It just takes practice to do it smoothly, just like anything else 🤷🏻‍♀️”➕
Discussion on belaying techniques and the importance of practice for inexperienced belayers
“it’s more about her getting used to it.”➕
“It takes a lot more of my brainpower and preparedness to belay way heavier climbers, so it can be a lot to handle when you’re starting.”➕
“some improved skills and knowledge would address a lot of the problems you’re describing.”➕
Discussion on climbing gear bundles and recommendations.
“Started Indoor Top Rope Climbing & Loved It.”➕
“That black diamond bundle pictured is totally fine, and you’ll never really outgrow it.”➕
“you mentioned you are looking for a grigri/carabiner, that BD momentum pack doesn't have a GriGri (those are made by Petzl)”➕
Advice on buying climbing gear in-store for proper fit.
“That harness is super comfy, it's the one I use all the time.”➕
Comparisons of ATC with other belay devices.
“I'm not sure if you're a sport-rappeler or a canyoneer-er, but either way, I would highly suggest switching from the figure 8 to a tube-style device.”➕
Advice on techniques for effective rappelling.
“I find it easier to "unlock" the prusik knot when you want to continue your way down, if there is more space.”➕
Debate over the preference of different rappelling techniques
“This is the sort of content I like to see!”➕

Cautionary Callouts

Know the pitfalls before they catch you off guard.
Debate over the necessity of ATC for various climbing scenarios
“You probably wouldn’t need an ATC on the west buttress of Denali, no rappels or sections where you would pitch it.”➕
“I mostly climb rock, but I recently had to replace my ATC Guide and went with a DMM Pivot instead– it’s such an upgrade.”➕
General discussion on belay device effectiveness and alternatives
“I love my reverso. Probably the best all around option I’ve used.”➕
Discussion about personal experiences with different belay devices
“Hate using the alpine up, always will pick abd >tube and prussik and havent used my gigi in a decade.”➕
“With a prussik I can rappel the pitch way faster without force feeding the rope.”➕

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