Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device

Name: Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device
Price: 24.95 USD
Availability: InStock
Rating: 7.1 (75 reviews)

Curated from 75 real Reddit conversations

Refreshed on: April 16, 2025

Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device

Brand: Black Diamond

Price: $24

Snoop Score:

7.1

Sentiment

8.1

Popularity

7.1

Technical

6.1

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Snoop's Take

The Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is designed for rock climbing and rappelling, accommodating ropes ranging from 7.7 to 11 mm. Users appreciate its versatility and reliability, especially for beginners, with sentiments like, "the ATC sees most use" indicating its popularity across various climbing scenarios. The lightweight design and affordable price point of approximately $25 make it a recommended choice for multipitch and trad climbing, although it may have limitations with very thin ropes and icy conditions. Overall, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is highly regarded in the climbing community for its performance and quality, making it a strong recommendation for climbers looking for an effective and budget-friendly belay device.

Not for you? Check out our other rated Belay & Rappel Equipment

there is a Edelrid micro jul and a bd atc guide specifically made for thin ropes.
Positive Feedback

Get an ATS not an ATC for canyoneering. It doesn’t need to be extended out.
Negative Feedback

7.1

Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device

Buy on Amazon for $24

Beginner Belaying

8 / 10

Sport Climbing

6 / 10

Trad & Multi-Pitch Climbing

10 / 10

Gym & Top-Rope Training

8 / 10

See how this compares to all Belay & Rappel Equipment

What it does well!

Key strengths users can’t stop talking about.

Black Diamond ATC Guide works well for thin ropes

“there is a Edelrid micro jul and a bd atc guide specifically made for thin ropes.”➕

ATC devices are reliable for beginners

“Equipment advice needed - belay device and carabiner”➕

“I'm just gonna say you're overthinking it and this doesn't matter that much.”➕

“You're over thinking it.”➕

Versatile for different climbing scenarios

“Just curious as to the opinions of climbers with more (or less) experience than myself.”➕

“The ATC sees most use, the Gri-Gri usually comes out when I am belaying someone who's working a project (lots of hangdogging), or when my hands are tired because I just did a hard route myself.”➕

ATC devices are versatile and intuitive

“Giga Jul is the answer. I trained with ATC and the switch is smooth and intuitive.”➕

“I switched from atc to atc pilot because of a she moves mountains trip where they required (and provided) pilots specifically and i loved how similar it was to the atc.”➕

Affordable price point for a quality belay device

“I will get an ATC or tube device with a guide mode - as that's what he asked for - instead of the grigri.”➕

“Black Diamond ATC Guide approx $25.”➕

Recommended for multipitch and trad climbing

“If your boyfriend does mostly gym or single pitch sport climbing, the grigri would be a good choice.”➕

ATC devices are reliable for various climbing scenarios

“Second this. Get the Guide one. Or the DMM Pivot.”➕

Recommended for static ropes

“I use a prusik below my atc or figure8 to create enough friction to stop me going further down if I ever get unconscious or need to use both hands to untangle rope or w/e.”➕

Effective for creating friction

“A mule knot can securely tie off any style of belay/rappel device.”➕

Lightweight design

“Constantly hear people complaining that their normal ATC is just too heavy to carry around.”➕

Versatile design for various rope sizes

“How much does equipment quality matter? I always rent my skis and look for the cheapest stores & prices.”➕

Provides good controllable friction for thin ropes

“The BD ATC Alpine Guide is the only belay device that provides good controllable friction.”➕

ATC guide is more durable than competitors

“ATC guide is more durable.”➕

Effective on ropes over 10mm, especially in guide mode

“ATC guide is much nicer to use on ropes over about 10/10.2.”➕

Where it needs some work!

Areas to watch—feedback on possible improvements.

Specific rope size limitation (minimum 8.1mm)

“Get an ATS not an ATC for canyoneering. It doesn’t need to be extended out.”➕

Not suitable for icy conditions

“Even keep it racked for regular rock as a back up to my GriGri.”➕

Limited to specific rope sizes (minimum 8.1mm)

“My Petzl reverso works for rappelling with it if I use two carabiners (as Petzl recommends), but I know Mammut used to make a figure of 8 specifically for thin ropes.”➕

Lacks the automatic locking feature of a GriGri

“The device with the lever is called a GriGri. They’re much more expensive than an ATC, but they have a semi auto locking cam, which is similar to a seatbelt- it locks itself if too much rope gets pulled through at once.”➕

Poor design for cleaning routes

“Biggest. I can't believe any climbing company would produce a tube-style device which forces a climber cleaning a route to be lowered as opposed to rappelling.”➕

Not compatible with very thin ropes like 6mm

“Out of curiosity, would a grigri or other devices still be able to assisted brake a rope that skinny?”➕

Limited usability with specific rope sizes

“Picking up 15lbs of rope and feeding it sucks.”➕

Reverso cannot handle larger ropes effectively

“the Reverso can't handle larger ropes. Friend of mine tried to rappel on thick rope (11mm?) using the Reverso and found the device was constantly sticking.”➕

Compare On All Talked About Dimensions

Product Name	Price	Score	See Details	Buy Now
PETZL GRIGRI+ Belay Device	$90	8.2	Details	Buy
S.E.PEAK Climbing Double Stop Descender	$43	8.0	Details	Buy
EDELRID GigaJul Belay Device	$59	7.7	Details	Buy
Mammut Smart 2.0 Belay Device	$39	7.5	Details	Buy
Ito Rocky Climbing Stop Descender for Rappelling	$43	7.3	Details	Buy
BLACK DIAMOND ATC-XP Belay Device	$24	7.2	Details	Buy
AOKWIT Professional 25KN Rappel ATC Belay Device	$15	7.2	Details	Buy
Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device	$24	7.1	Details	Buy
Petzl GRIGRI + Belay Device with Anti-Panic Handle	$89	6.8	Details	Buy
Black Diamond Big Air ATC XP Belay Device and Carabiner Package	$39	6.2	Details	Buy
Black Diamond ATC-Guide Rapel/Belay Device	$37	6.1	Details	Buy
YXGOOD 50KN Rescue Figure 8 Descender	$16	6.1	Details	Buy
PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device	$99	5.5	Details	Buy
Black Diamond Super 8 Belay Rappel Device	$19	4.6	Details	Buy
SOB Climbing Fall Protection Belay Device	$16	3.0	Details	Buy
NewDoar Climbing Abseiling Belay Device	$13	3.0	Details	Buy
WILDKEN Professional Rappel ATC Belay Device	$12	2.8	Details	Buy
PETZL Gray GRIGRI 3 Climbing Belay Device	$95	1.0	Details	Buy

Core Power Plays

The specs and strengths that make it shine.

Discussion about advantages of Grigri over ATC

“I am passionately team Grigri, and many of the people who I climb with are too.”➕

“I'll add: if your climber hangs a lot, get a Grigri.”➕

“It’s now second nature and I don’t notice it at all.”➕

“Grigri is the way.”➕

Discussion about carabiner features and preferences

“I'm partial to this carabiner because you don't have to open the gate to move items in/out of the belay loop clip, and the steel insert is sweet”➕

“I have this but with the screw gate because I find it easier to operate single handed”➕

Curiosity about new belay devices and features

“It will be as smooth if not even more smooth to feed rope than an atc due to its "pulley".”➕

“Do you know when the new GriGri will come out?”➕

Exploration of various belay devices for thin ropes

“Second vote for Munter or Supermunter, thinnest rope I've rappelled on is an 8mm static.”➕

“I've also heard good things about the CRITR, though haven't tried them myself.”➕

“I have the Mammut 6mm equivalent (I like the bright color and midpoint, but the Petzl is lighter).”➕

“Maybe check out the Sterling ATS? Theoretically should work.”➕

Preference for different belay devices

“Even if you prefer to belay with a gri-gri, it's much easier to (eventually) rap with the ATC, and you should learn to use one eventually anyway.”➕

Discussion about major differences between ATC and Reverso

“Other than the name brand, is there any advantage to one over the other?”➕

Hidden Hero Hacks

Unexpected tricks and side‑door uses you’ll love.

Discussion about the shift from ATC to assisted braking devices

“I have always used an ATC. I have tried a GriGri in the past and do not get on with it (partly because I am left-handed, and partly because I found the whole process very clunky and over-complicated compared to the simplicity of the ATC technique).”➕

“Personally I use the Jul 2 simply because I got a great deal for one. Also I like that it is made out of steel.”➕

Discussion on using different rappel techniques

“the device is weighted. (At least in my experience.)”➕

“If you were to tell us why you are rappelling, it might be more obvious what the best course of action would be.”➕

“Munter-mule if I need to go at something for a while.”➕

Buyer’s Cheat Sheet

What to check before you click ‘Add to Cart.’

Discussion about appropriate rope sizes for climbing and rappelling

“the ATC guide seems to be the go to choice so i'm confused as to why they aren't rated for the most common ropes.”➕

“those 6mm cords are hyper static and should never be used for climbing - only glacier travel and rappelling.”➕

“A grigri can be a nice part of a rescue kit though, because of the release.”➕

“I think the most common glacier ropes are 8-9mm.”➕

Discussion about using belay devices with thin ropes

“Rappel Devices for 6mm Rope? What is/would be your preffered way to rappel on a 6mm rope like the petzl rad line?”➕

“Besides the hardware recommendations, Super Munter is my preference for 8mm and under.”➕

“Munter hitch is common and works well.”➕

“Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide and two Petzl Attache carabiners works well”➕

Curiosity about the best belay device for technical alpine routes

“Having said that a BD ATC Guide would be fine for the more technical routes, same with a reverso.”➕

“A guide mode tube device can easily become a nice ratchet in a crevasse rescue scenario.”➕

Curiosity about different belay device options and features

“+1 for the jul 2 (i use a megajul but it’s essentially the same).”➕

“All the geometry-assisted devices (Jul 2, Smart, Pilot) all work and handle similarly; if one feels intuitive to you they all will.”➕

Discussion about preferences for different belay devices

“Petzi Reverso on multipitch for belaying in guide mode or if gear is anything less than solid.”➕

“* Mammut-smart (inexpensive but good auto locking assisted breaking device for single rope)”➕

Discussion about equipment bundles

“Found a Black Diamond bundle.”➕

Discussion on preferences for belay devices

“Thanks for trying it out, neat data point.”➕

“This is the sort of content I like to see!”➕

“I dislike BD but I don't know of a comparable device.”➕

Cautionary Callouts

Know the pitfalls before they catch you off guard.

Discussion about various belay devices for different climbing scenarios

“What belay/rappel devices do you recommend for mountaineering? What brand in particular.”➕

“Lots of people are recommending the BD ATC guide, which is definitely a great option.”➕

“I recently had to replace my ATC Guide and went with a DMM Pivot instead– it’s such an upgrade.”➕

Discussion about belay device preferences

“Works in guide mode, but also auto locks (or brake assists) like a grigri.”➕

Exploration of safety measures during rappelling

“I find it easier to "unlock" the prusik knot when you want to continue your way down, if there is more space.”➕

Curiosity about climbing gear quality and choices

“I could ski a black diamond on the box your skis come in.”➕

“This is a good answer. A solid rental shop will have equipment for virtually every skill level.”➕

Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device

Curated from 75 real Reddit conversations

Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device

Snoop's Take

Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device

Beginner Belaying

Sport Climbing

Trad & Multi-Pitch Climbing

Gym & Top-Rope Training

What it does well!

Where it needs some work!

Compare On All Talked About Dimensions

Core Power Plays

Hidden Hero Hacks

Buyer’s Cheat Sheet

Cautionary Callouts

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